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Electric system

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  • Electric system

    12V or 24V system for the seastead?
    Higher or lower is not practical and main advantage of alternating current is little loss over long distances (central power plant - consumer). No long wire runs on seastead.
    Car or Truck system? Overall if i do deceit seasteading is for me in my opinion the truck configuration is a better choice. Appliances, fridges, cookers, microwaves, heaters, kettles... are better quality and more efficient. Also easier to step up from 24V with inverter to higher voltages. Down is easy and cheap with DC-DC bulk converters.
    What system would you install?

  • #2
    I think 24V is ideal. The main component in things like refrigerators is the pump so just replace the AC pump with DC and have more efficiency.

    Though an inverter will always be necessary.


    • #3
      For solar charging of your cells, aim for 1.5x output than your load. IE, 12v battery system, 18v solar system. I believe that's the recommendation anyway.


      • #4
        It may even be wise to have dual system.
        A 100A MPPT Solar Charge Regulator is still easy to obtain and lots of choices. Any bigger, prices increase rapidly and choices are limited. Extravagance is not something to have on seastead.
        1200 Watt solar means 2 days a year for 2 hours the solar cell will deliver and prove it to be the rated-ed wattage. Typical day, amps rising with sunrise, peaking at 1000W when sun straight above panels then gradually falling back to 0. Anytime a small cloud appears amps drop, so in 10hour day may average 500w. Then there is all loses and less in wintertime, rainy days, charge controller efficiency at 90% or so....
        100A system is already serious wire gauge size and long runs to be avoided. With 24 Volt a 100A charge controller will have something like max 1500W input.


        • #5
          Unfortunately we do not have much of anything to monitor the solar.

          Might buy a monitor later but for now we would need to manually measure the voltage. I do doubt the two of us will use up the electric through. No TV, simple charged bluetooth speaker and our phones/laptops.


          • #6
            Most charge controllers will tell you how much comes in form panels, how many amps used or the state of the battery bank. A simple $5 amp meter will also do the trick.
            Two types of charge controllers are available, Pulse width modulation (PWM) and Maximum power point tracking (MPPT)
            For seasteading main power bank I would go for the MPPT. With a dual voltage system 24V main and lights and other small amp draws on 12V a cheaper PWM (not as efficient as MPPT) type will do the job.
            1200watt array/24volt battery bank = 50 amps so you need at least a 60 or better 80 amp controller.

            Apparently the Epever range is the best at moment but generally cheaper Chinese like work ok. To some degree what controller is used depends on type of Battery bank as some may not be able to adjust floating voltage 13.4V, 13.7V…..etc if necessary, preset should be ok.

            DC vs AC either will kill you but extra caution with DC as a fire will start in no time.

            Depending on cable length for 24V, 50A, 3meter long run from controller to battery bank is 6mm wire thickness (3AWG)
            Last edited by Manfred; 01-20-2019, 10:11 AM.